Wednesday, March 25, 2009

The Tranquility and Mystery of Smuggler's Cover

There is tranquility in the calm blue waters mirroring clouds that drift like disappearing smoke. The water softly creeps into nooks and crannies, its only sound the swish of ripples lapping at pebbles on the beach. An eagle in a distant tree watches for his next dinner while birds flutter nearby, their voices raised in cheerful song. The breeze, warm on my already sun-bronzed skin, tickles my face like the gentle stroke of an ostrich feather. It is a place so tranquil that my chest constricts with the beauty of it.

But there is mystery also behind every outcropping of rocks that rise from the waters protecting what can't be seen. Clusters of small islands huddle like stepping stones near the edge of the distant shore. What is nature hiding? What has it hidden before human eyes discovered its tranquility and beauty? What is the mystery of Smuggler's Cove?

Popular folklore, considered fact by some and rumor by others, is that the bay was used by Larry "Pig Iron" Kelly to smuggle Chinese labourers from Canada into the United States. Having completed their work on the Canadian Pacific Railway, the Chinese labourers were no longer considered a necessary commodity. Charging one hundred dollars for every man he transported the Captain gave strict orders that no sound was to be made while they were in the bay or the offending party would be dropped to the bottom of the ocean.

The cove was also believed by many to be where bootleg liquor, produced on neighboring Texada Island was taken on board to be smuggled into the United States during the prohibition era.

Whether these stories are true or false, the fact remains that visitors to Smuggler's Cove will feel surrounded by mystery within these sheltered waters. One can almost imagine a ship hovering behind a rock outcropping waiting for its next contraband pick-up. Situated on the south side of the Sechelt Peninsula, the cove is protected by offshore islands and exploration of these islands may offer other mysteries for the adventuresome explorer.

Smuggler's Cove is now a 182 hectare Provincial Marine Park with a 3.5 km round trip trail. There is much to explore and see - rocky shorelines, lagoons, tidal pools and sea cucumbers lying on submerged rocks below the surface of these calm waters. Looking south there is a view of Thormanby Island and Texada Island as well as a spectacular view of Georgia Strait and Welcome Passage.

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